Old Fashioned Galvanized Bathtubs That Can Be Used For Dogs How to Breed Ball Pythons

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How to Breed Ball Pythons

The purpose of this article is to increase your chances of success in raising ball pythons. I’m going to lay out some quick and easy tips that will help you on your way to success in raising these wonderful pets.

True Sex – Make sure your animals are properly sexed, and you actually have a male and a female. There are two ways to determine the sex of a ball python, one is by “popping” and the other is by “examining”. In my opinion, spraying is the easier method between the two, requires no tools and is not dangerous or harmful to the animal. To examine a ball python you need to insert a metal probe backwards towards the tail into the left or right side of the cloaca. When the probe is inserted, you take a measurement to determine the sex of the animal. Males usually dig very deep, about 8 or more underground dimensions, and females will dig about 2-4 underground dimensions. I will cover more detailed instructions on how to determine the gender of your snake in another article, if for any reason you are unsure of determining the gender of your pet, find a qualified entomologist in your area for assistance.

Sexual maturity – Males and females reach sexual maturity at different ages and weights. Sexual maturity in ball pythons is determined more by weight than by the age of the animal, although age certainly plays a role in sexual maturity. Females usually mature around two to three years of age and weigh 1200-1500 grams, some may mature a little earlier or a little later but most of the fat will mature at this age and weight. Males grow much faster than females and usually mature between 6 months – 1 year, although I have had a few males that hatch at twelve weeks old! Breeding weight for males ranges from 400 grams for juveniles to 800 grams or more for first-time breeders.

Seasonal Change and Temperature Fall – In the wild ball pythons are seasonal animals and usually breed during the rainy season between October and December, with egg laying season around March and April. Baby ball pythons start eating their first meals after the rainy season when prey items are plentiful. Now in captivity, they can grow for about a year, but some seasonal changes and temperature drops increase your chances of maximum production. I like to slowly start dropping my temperature a degree or two each week in November until I get my temperature down 5-7 degrees at night from my daily high of 85-87 in the off season. degree is During the breeding season I run for three to four months on the warmest side of the coop at 80 degrees overnight and then back down to the season temperature of 85-87 degrees.

Collecting them for breeding – Once you have decided that you really have males and females and that they are at the age and weight of sexual maturity, it is time to start collecting these animals for breeding. I put my males into the female’s cages and not the other way around because female ball pythons release a lot of pheromones during breeding season and these pheromones are very good at signaling male ball pythons when it’s time to breed. When I introduce the male to the female I leave the pair undisturbed for 24 hours, then I check if they are actively breeding, if they are I give them another 24 hours, if they are not I move on to the next male. the woman’s tab and start the process again. When the male has successfully mated with a female, I offer him a small meal which is usually a small mouse and rest for 48 hours. When he is well rested I repeat the process. I continue this process of mating the male and female until the females are either ovulating or it is clear that they will produce for the season.

Ovulation – It is very useful when it comes to accurately identifying an ovulating female python for maximum productivity. Here are some quick tips to help you identify an active ovulator and a woman who has already ovulated.

Identifying an Active Ovulation – An actively ovulating female ball python will have a very noticeable swelling in the lower third of her body; she may look like she just ate a big meal. You’ll also notice that her tail is drawn into her body in an awkward “L” shape. That classic position is known to veteran python breeders as “Suck” and is an important sign that the female is in the process of ovulation.

Ovulation has occurred – If you missed active ovulation, all is not lost, and you can still tell if your female ball python has ovulated with these quick tips. First of all, just watch her over the course of a few days and see where she spends most of her time. Is it at the cold end of the tube or the hot end? If it is on the warm end of the cup, then chances are your woman has already ovulated and no longer needs to be bred. If it still moves to the cooler end of the cup and covers the cup, then chances are very good that your woman has not ovulated and she still needs to be bred.

Hatching and Incubation – After ovulation your female python no longer needs to be mated with the male and you can start setting up the incubator and preparing for the ball python hatchlings. About three weeks after ovulation she will enter a shedding cycle known to seasoned breeders as “POS” which stands for “post ovulation shedding.” Following “POS” you are looking at around 30-40 days until your wife ovulates.

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